Monte San Primo, 1,682 metres, is the highest peak of the Triangolo Lariano and one of the widest panoramic viewpoints in the whole area: from the summit the view sweeps across both branches of Lake Como, the Como Prealps and, on the clearest days, as far as the Alps and the northern Apennines. The classic loop starting at Piano Rancio, a hamlet of Bellagio, is a hiking route (E difficulty) within reach of anyone with a minimum level of fitness, best walked in spring and autumn, when temperatures are milder, the woods show their best colours and there are fewer crowds than in summer.
From the Ghisallo pass to Piano Rancio
Access to the loop is by car to the Ghisallo pass, then along an asphalt road through the woods to the car park at Piano Rancio, by the now-disused ski facilities. Before setting out it’s worth stopping at the Santuario della Madonna del Ghisallo, patron saint of cyclists since 1949, with the nearby Museo del Ciclismo: a near-obligatory stop for anyone arriving at or leaving this pass, a symbol of the Giro di Lombardia and repeatedly part of the Giro d’Italia route. Piano Rancio is also home to Rifugio Anna Maria, the loop’s starting and finishing point.
From Alpe di Borgo to the summit
From the car park, the loop follows waymarked paths 1 and 39: first climbing to Alpe di Borgo (1,240 m), then to a junction by a rocky outcrop and on to Alpe di Terrabiotta (1,435 m), before the final stretch up to the summit of Monte San Primo (1,682 m). From here the view opens out over 360 degrees across both branches of Lake Como.
The descent to Rifugio Martina
The descent follows the northern side of the mountain, passing through the Alpe dei Picett — home to Rifugio Martina, run by the Ticozzi family since 1928 and known for its polenta uncia — before continuing towards Alpe delle Ville and Colonia Bonomelli (1,160 m), closing the loop back at Piano Rancio. This very descent from the summit towards Alpe dei Picett is the most demanding section of the route, owing to the marked loss of elevation: in wet or snowy conditions it’s advisable to skip the loop and return the way you came, along the ascent route.
Practical information
- Starting and finishing point: Piano Rancio, a hamlet of Bellagio, reached by car from the Ghisallo pass.
- Length and ascent: 7.5 km and 560 m of ascent for the classic loop, in about 3h30 (source: comoeilsuolago.it). Other sources describe different variants of the route — a longer one (13 km, 670 m, about 4h45) or an out-and-back route (2h30, 720 m) — with different times and elevation gain.
- Difficulty: E (hiking trail). The most demanding section is the descent from the summit towards Alpe dei Picett, best avoided in snow or on wet rock.
- Waymarking: numbered paths 1 and 39.
- Best season: spring and autumn.
- Equipment: hiking boots, a backpack and enough water.